I have a 22'x22' detached garage. I would like to have the building raised 2.5-3’ to gain more interior ceiling height.
2x4 construction with brick veneer and stucco on the exterior.
Interior is unfinished.
Garage is accessible from the alley and power enters the property through the garage (metal conduit through roof) and then runs underground to the house.
I commissioned an engineer report on how to remove support posts in my basement. The report said this could be done but the existing beam had to be reinforced with two steel c channels that were 18 ft in length.
There may have to be a post replacement as well. The one post has to be a 12000 lb post and I believe it is currently 8000 lb.
I would like to have the addition that is currently attached to my home taken down along with the deck and have a larger addition places in, a new deck built, new siding put on (the addition and the rest of the house, and shed), new weather windows, new ease troughs, new skirting.
This will be preformend on a 1985 Winalta trailer. The dimensions of the trailer are 79' by 16'. The new addition will be approx 30' by 10'. We will require all the electrical/plumbing to be done. The only other previous renivation was a 12' x 7' addition that was not done properly. The floors are warped. We want it to be properly ancored and settled so the frost will not lift this addition.
I am currently seeking out an experienced general contractor that will be my right hand. I will be more in the financing end of purchasing distressed, foreclosed and bank foreclosure homes. I need an individual with experience, knowledge, honesty and specialty contractor contacts. Will be paid well and work in a positive environment.
I need to remove this 7 foot span of wall but I do not know if the wall is load bearing and I need an assessment and estimate of the work to be done. The wall is dry walled and already has a cut-out (3'x5') in the span to look between the two rooms. I would like to completely removed this section of wall if possible. The house is over 40 years old, just under 1100 sq. ft. and is in good condition. There are minor cracks in the drywall above the cut-out and also on the adjacent wall which has a window. Please let me know if an assessment can be provided.
I'm looking at having 3 walls removed within the house and a doorway filled in. The first is a load bearing wall approximately 15 feet across that does have a light switch that may need to be relocated. That decision can be made upon a closer home inspection and I realize will effect overall cost. The load bearing wall will require a 19 foot engineered beam as replacement.
I am also looking to remove a non load bearing wall between two bedrooms (12 feet) and a non load bearing 3 1/2 foot wall in the bathroom. The bathroom wall does contain the tub/shower plumbing that will be moved at a later date. Lastly, there is a doorway that will need to be filled in with dry wall. I have included photos for the load bearing and bathroom walls.
The removal of a load bearing wall and installation of supporting beam. Wall is located in middle of main floor and has a walk through entrance. 8 ft tall, 9.5 ft long, 8 inches wide. Contractor and engineer needed. Wall has electrical, co-ax, central vac, door bell, and open air vent in it that needs moving to other walls.
I have a glass patio door and a regular back door 1 foot apart. In my kitchen there is a 7 foot long dividing wall between the patio door and the back door which makes a useless 7 foot long narrow corridor that ends with the backdoor. See attached renovations01.jpg
1. I want to remove the dividing wall as well as remove the closets from the wall opposite.This means that the portion of the ceiling where the dividing wall is would need to be fixed. We don't need to worry about the floor, because I'll change it anyway when I remodel my kitchen in a future project. In other words I want to get rid of the useless dividing wall to add more space to my kitchen.
2. I also want to move my patio door over by 4.5 feet replacing the back door. See attached renovations02.jpg When I say "move" the patio door, I mean change where the patio door is on the wall, but I want a new patio door (one that opens in the other direction and holds heat more efficiently) The opening in the outside wall that would be left after the patio door is moved should become a wall. The outside is grey aluminium siding. I'm not too concerned about matching 100% in colour.
There is also some electrical work that needs to be done. The plugs need to move from the removed dividing wall to the wall with closets. Two switches for the outside lights needs to be combined into one and relocated to where the back door is now. Some lighting fixtures might need to be relocated. There might be additional power lines going along the wall into the next room, so they might be a complication.
I'm sure your'e familiar with the typical layout...dinning room divide from the living room by a wall (load bearing). Spans about 22ft across. Older house...1964. Bungalow. I don't care if the beam is recessed into the ceiling I just don't want a post in the middle of the room. I want the wall gone. Not sure what I'm looking at for cost but if the price is too high I'm just going to renovate my basement.
We would like to open up the main floor of our house by removing the wall between the living room and dining room. Unsure if it is load-bearing or not (but suspect it might be). In any event, the result would need to support further planned expansion of the second storey. The wall also currently houses the controls for the furnace.
The house is a typical small post-war 1.5 storey, originally constructed in 1948. It has been modernized and renovated already, but we are looking to take it further. This project would be the first step in a larger vision that would include expanding the second storey through creative use of dormers.
Looking for feedback from someone with experience specifically with this type of property - i.e., someone who can creatively re-imagine an older house. Would also need frank advice about what is realistically possible with this house. Can the structure sustain the changes?
We would like to remove the top half of the wall between our kitchen and living room. We want to remove half of the wall to open up the floor plan but leave the bottom half because there is a lot of electrical running in that wall. We need an engineer to determine if the wall is load bearing and how much it would cost to remove half of it.
Hello, I'm looking for a rough estimate of removing a load bearing wall between a living room and a dining room and kitchen. The wall is 15' across, and I believe 8' high. I wouldn't mind one or even several columns put in to carry the load. The wall goes lengthwise through the living room and kitchen/dining area with a 3' open walkway connecting the rooms.
Thank you.
Looking to renovate a 1978 house so it is up to present day. The house is 2,400 square feet. Replace windows, repair water damage from window problems, replace flooring (lino and carpet most likely), repair or replace kitchen cabinets, replace countertops in kitchen and bathrooms, replace electrical outlets. Plus other miscellaneous work.
1340 sq ft bungalow built in 1952; original plumbing and electrical. W
Would like to gut basement (previous owners did basement reno probably in the 1950's). Would also like to redo/finish/re-insulate the basement and redo entire electrical and plumbing through the home.
John
Hello, my husband and I recently purchased a renovated home in Edmonton, and have run into a number of problems. We have been trying to address them individually with each trade, but now we are running into bigger problems that are very unfamiliar to us and out of our scope of knowledge. We are looking to find a company we can trust, is honest, and does good work they can take pride in. We are now running into possible foundation problems, HVAC issues, and maybe mold, and we are unsure if these are minor or major problems because each trade looks at their part only, and guesses at the rest, so we would like a contractor that would be able to do the whole job whether it is major or turns out to be minor. If you are interested in our project and in providing a quote, and references please let me know.
Thanks
Julie W
Hello, I have got a few quotes so far and I am looking for some more to compare and decide. I am looking for someone that can rip out my existing tile + baseboards and put 12x24 Tierra Sol Rak grey sparko tiles down. I have two bathrooms, one ensuite bathroom and a whole main floor too do. The kitchen backsplash and tub and shower surrounds as well. I was originally quoted for 10x60 tiles @ 800 of them needed for the job but I liked the 12x24 better. I did not buy the tile yet as I am comparing prices. The quartz countertops I am looking at are ceaserstone- raw concrete. I am willing to pay for the work, i am just looking for a reasonable price. I just feel the stores I went too charged full price for everything and I found my quote for just tile installation was really high. Basement was fully developed by the builder with a living room, two bedrooms and a full bath. I am starting over and just want too make the house look nice for my daughter and I. I just picked the budget closest to $50000 or so. I do have good taste and the stuff I like is not cheap, so I am not unrealistic thinking in what it will cost me.
I am in the process of building a new rear double car garage with a possibility of a basement access. I already have a front drive garage and need to have this space renovated once the double car garage is built. I need to have this done as soon as possible and further would like the following done as listed.
1. double garage with granny suite over garage
2. addition to front of home with foundation work and front access to basement for basement suite.
3. new kitchen to be determined.
PLEASE RESPOND FIRSTLY BY EMAIL WITH YOUR QUALIFICATIONS, RATES, ETC.
We have a 1950s 1,100 sq ft bungalow. There has been very little change to the house. It is in very good structural condition with two small bedrooms and one master bedroom and one full bath on first floor and one bath with just shower in finished basement. We want to open up the first floor floor plan, possibly add a half bath, redo existing bath, possibly change wooden floors to wood we like more, at least in part of the space. We are planning a full kitchen remodel, with stone/granite counter tops. We are considering adding a second floor with a master and a small bedroom and one bath, depending on cost. We also want to redo the basement and build a new garage with or without a suite, depending on cost.
We would like to do the whole project in as environmentally sensitive a way as we can afford. We don't need a net zero house, but do want high efficiency, low toxicity and want to add solar panels.
The following is a DRAFT version and therefore only for estimating purposes. On site consultation is required for finalization.
Construction drawings are available upon request.
1) Kitchen upgrade (about 420 sq. ft.)
demolish and remove north wall between kitchen and back room
remove existing cabinets for recycle pick-up
remove and salvage existing sinks for re-use. Discard existing faucets
demolish and remove northwest wall running north/south in the existing back room (salvage shelf on west wall for use elsewhere)
tie in new plumbing drainage with existing kitchen drains
run new waterlines for sinks and dishwasher
upgrade electrical as required ensuring adequate receptacles
run new gas line for gas range
install venting (tie into existing) for ranges ventilation
purchase and install lower cabinets and upper rack shelving of top residential quality
purchase and install stainless steel or plastic laminate countertops (get prices on both)
remove kitchen counter backsplash tiles, purchase and install food grade acrylic on all surfaces except behind ranges (use stainless)
install commercial dishwasher (already purchased)
purchase and install standup freezer, 2 residential ranges, wall mounted microwave, 1 refrigerator; models??
purchase and install 1 garburator for one sink on north west wall
purchase and install 2 deep sinks c/w faucets
patch or replace flooring, purchasing new linoleum as required.
patch/repair wall surfaces and ceilings as required.
Repaint all walls and ceiling
enhance fluorescent lighting with another 2 fluorescent fixtures - place lighting over work areas
2) Mop room (about 190 sq. ft.)
build south wall (wood stud/drywall) to create mop room with swinging door into kitchen)
build new wall (wood stud/drywall) between garage and mop room with fire rated door into garage)
install shelving on mop room south wall - use existing
Purchase and install stacking washer/dryer
Purchase and install one floor mop sink c/w faucet
Tie in plumbing with existing
Run waterlines for sink, washer
Tie in heating and install registers
Finish floor (smooth painted concrete or water proof surface) with floor drain and baseboards
Install baseboards
Install coat hooks on west wall
Install water hose brackets on east block wall
upgrade electrical - install electrical outlets
install 2 fluorescent lighting fixtures
paint wall surfaces & ceiling
3) Foyer Universal Washroom (about 80 sq. ft.)
create doorway in block wall between office and boardroom
purchase and install universal size/style door
build north wall of bathroom (wood stud/drywall), and finish
tie in plumbing with existing, run water lines for sink and toilet
install heating as required
run electrical for lights, fan
purchase and install one overhead and one over mirror light fixtures
venting for fan
finish ceiling as required.
purchase and install one universal sink c/w faucets
purchase and install one universal toilet
purchase and install one paper towel/trash container combo
purchase and install foam soap dispenser
purchase and install one toilet paper dispenser
purchase and install marmoleum flooring to match main hall floors c/w baseboard
Purchase and install one universal vanity and mirror
Purchase and install tiled backsplash
paint washroom inside and outside walls and ceiling
4) In-hall storage area (about 80 sq. ft.)
create 4 ft doorway in block wall (north west side of main hall)
purchase and install one 4 ft door
build north wall (wood stud/drywall) into existing office space
purchase and install marmoleum flooring c/w baseboard to match main hall flooring
install shelving (salvaged from office)
install one electrical outlet and two fluorescent lights on separate switches
paint inside and outside walls and ceiling
Due to a toliet leak in our ensuite bathroom the plumbing needs to be repaired (flange was not bolted to subfloor and below the height of the subfloor). The toliet leak caused damage to surrounding subfloor and ceiling below. We don't expect this to be a renovation but a repair.
We also would like to have one of the windows in this ensuite (48 by 36) swapped out for a casement type so that we can open it for more air circulation. We currently have willmar windows.
The house is only 11 years old.
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