My basement was finished, probably in the 1970s. There are 1x3s nailed to the concrete block exterior walls with wood paneling attached to the 1x3 strapping. There is no insulation. The concrete blocks are lightly painted with something black, probably roofing tar for waterproofing.
This basement is not damp (a big reason I bought this house). No leaks or water damage in the basement, I live on a hill with well drained soil, so I'm not worried about moisture.
I want to replace the paneling with drywall for a more modern look. There is currently wall-to-wall carpeting, which I want to keep.
I was thinking of putting 3/4" rigid foam between the 1x3 strapping and sealing around the 1x3s with spray foam. Then I would attach drywall to the 1x3 strapping. By doing this, I would not have to mess with the carpeting.
Is there any benefit to adding the rigid foam? It's not much R-value, but the walls would be sealed. Our winters are mostly below freezing (Dec-Mar). The forced-air heating keeps it warm enough, but would adding this small amount of insulation make it a bit more cozy in winter? Or is it not worth it? In other words, will it make a noticeable difference?
Any other thoughts or ideas about how to update the walls?
Every bit helps. Taping the joints will also reduce drafts
As far as updating to current code standards you'll have to extend your frame enough to allow for proper insulation.
As another poster said everylittle bit helps. It would be doubtful whether you would notice any difference in just adding the insulation alone. Sealing everything would help a bunch in not let drafts in, which in my opinion are a bigger concern in this case. Insulation is only as good as the vapour barrier you put in front of it.
For the small cost of the insulation I would do it.
If you are doing a basement reno it should be brought up to current Code which likely means an R-20 assembly for the full height. Unsure how your 3/4" strapping is able to accommodate electrical.
If it were me, and wanting a nice cozy living space, I would go that extra mile and fill the wall with a good quality of insulation. I have been a fan of roxal insulation that works well as a sound barrirer as well. You might want to build out your walls using 2 x 4's, especially if you are going to install some electrical outlets in your perimeter walls. Once you have added your new studs beside your 2 x 3's, add your 4 insulation , vapour barrier, and your 1/2 drywall. I think you will be much happier when it is all done. Hope this is helpful.
Brent
Hello Bert,
I recommend having a qualified professional review the project first. You want to be careful how you are sealing the area - double sealing can trap moisture and rot out the existing wood.
If the 'black Painted' area is a sealer, then you apply rigid insulation ( depending on the type ) and seal that, you are trapping the moisture inside the two vapor barriers.
It will make a small difference! It definitely won't hurt to put some installation or vapour barrier
As license Carpenter contractors once we remove product like that and realize there's three quarter inch strapping nail to the concrete walls we are required to reframe the exterior complete with minimum 2" 4" walls with a minimum 1 in air space from the backside of the two by four wall to the concrete foundation wall. Then insulate minimum R12 and install a 6 mil vapor barrier with tuck tape on all joints and acoustic caulking along the bottom where the plastic goes over the bottom play on your wall. You could leave your carpet and just cut it as necessary. Don't forget to use pressure-treated lumber for your bottom plate on all your exterior walls or any wall going on concrete. And or put a 6 mil Vapor under the wall wherever you build one. Hope this helps you out.
hi there...
Rigid foam......preferably blue.........is hard to cut/fit.
If you can afford to spend more money, go to spray foam (urethane or other).
Alternatively, use R-8/R10 fiberglass batts and supersix poly, although then you should really have 20 lbs. felt on the concrete and behind the studs.
Gerard Schoeman
If it is a choice between no insulation and piecemeal rigid foam, the foam wins out.
Any insulation is usually better than no insulation, as long as that insulation does not create more problems for you later on.
Insulating with fiberglass against a vapor-ridden concrete wall is an example of the latter.
If you can just as easily install continuous rigid foam against concrete, that should be your first choice.
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