Fences

5/23/2009 at 12:32:35 AM

Two feet? What about frost line, will the frost / ice force the post up from the ground come winter?

Brad

Tradesmen

5/24/2009 at 10:37:58 AM

In climates where snow/freezing is present, any post that is to support a permanent device should be no less that 3 feet below the surface with an adequate drainage layer (ie 3/4 crush). Preferred is 4 feet +.

If you want your fence to last only 5 yrs or less before you need to repair them, put your post only 2 feet into the ground. If you want them to last 10 yrs plus, do it properly.

Regards

Lionel

5/28/2009 at 4:35:52 PM

sorry guy's the last one is on the money good comments Lionel.

6/1/2009 at 2:24:15 AM

Frost in the ground is a ligitimate concern, however the effects are more significant when the structure is load-bearing, such as a foundation of a building, or a house, where heaving ( lifting and shifting of the foundation by ice) is possible. For fense posts, since they are not considered load-bearing, one may consider the 2 feet to be sufficent to balance the cost vs benefits, particularly in areas like Vancouver BC

6/3/2009 at 11:56:03 PM

My fence which had only been in for 6 years barely, had nearly all the concrete lifting out oft the ground. When I would mow the grass the wheels of the mower wound always come against the lifted concrete that held the fence post. I was told it was because the installer never went deep enough for the frost line.

6/10/2009 at 12:59:35 PM

Pretty basic stuff. 3 - 4'. will suffice. 2' will surely heave.

6/16/2009 at 2:26:26 PM

As some of the others have stated , you will need to go 4' to eliminate the heaving by frost. you can also help this process by using sono tubes. this makes it difficult for the frost to grab the concrete and lift it.

6/23/2009 at 2:16:34 PM

good advice Dan

11/2/2009 at 1:00:12 AM

Hello Folks,

I would have to say from many years of installing fences and decks that a 3' deep post hole is pretty much minimum depth for a 6' high fence (Vancouver BC area).

The trick is to not use cement. Tamping the dirt back in the hole (if it's not too wet or sandy) is really the best way to go even if an outside source of good tamping gravel is needed to be brough in (road base works very well). Un-cemented posts do stand up very well to frozen ground and a treated post will simply last longer when not set in cement. Tamp Tamp Tamp and then some more tamping. If done properly the post should be as strong as any cemented post and it will outlast it by many years.

It's amazing how some of the local fence installers (usually subcontracting for larger companies) seem to be able to get away with 1'to2' deep post holes. Sure they will last for a few years, but you know it will only take maybe 4 to 6 years before the posts are very loose or excessively leaning from left to right as you look down the fence line. Lazy and cheap labour is all it is. I will fight to the death to get my holes dug to where I know is acceptable. There a very few situations, but I must admit that there are times when cement is needed as a last resort and I will use it when necessary.

Ok,,, now all you cement heads can flame away...

Rick...