Is there a specific certification that a general contractor can obtain to indicate that they are qualified to install hardwood floors?
Also, is there a practiced distance for each plank to be from the other? Eg. If you have 3 boards beside eachother, should the but end of each board be more than a particular distance from each other.
How far into the door threshold should the flooring enter if there is carpet within the particular room or bedroom that the hardwood flooring abutts to?
On a brand newly laid hardwood floor (3 and a quarter inch thick hardwood), should there be wood fill along the doorways to each bedroom?
When providing a threshold into bedrooms where the carpet meets the hardwood and the hardwod is being used as the threshold piece and the carpet and hardwood are at the same height, should the tongue on the hardwood be removed prior to laying the particular board in order to properly abutting the carpet up to the hardwood?
When a brand new hardwood floor has been laid and the subfloor was re-enforced with screws and cleaned off prior to laying the hardwood, should the floor sqeak and creek?
Is there such a thing as a custom cut transition piece for where the hardwood would abutt up to say, a ceramic floor that has already been previously laid?
Is it ever possible to cut a damaged board out of the middle of the floor and replace it ensuring the same level of firmness and integrity as the original floor?
Are you talking about laminate flooring or Hardwood flooring, my advise is to go to the supplier and find out what is required and how to install the flooring they should be able to answere your questions.
Most general contractors will have certified sub contractors that do this type of work.
No there is no certification required to install flooring. But there are qualified diploma holders home renovation technitions. You must ask for atleast 3 references. Call them. Also look for little things like their business cards, contract forms etc.
You last question, if you are talking about subfloor yes it is possible.
There is no certification for any type of finish carpentry
If you want to make sure that your floor is done properly Purchase the floor from a reputable store that has been in business for many years and provides proper Warranty, insurance, and WSIB And have them install and warranty there installation.
If you hire someone from a local paper or online forum you are almost sure to be unsatisfied with the results and your Warranty will last until the moment that you pay them!!!
Everything you wrote/ask sounds to me that your hardwood floor has already been installed. Furthermore it sounds the flooring guy did a pretty bad job because all the questions you were asking, asking the customers usually after the job is done and they are not satisfied. Am I right?
I hear the same type of questions often from customers who ask me about her tile work which a previous contractor has done.
Has already been answered
There should be a distance. How much is depend how the other boards are laid. Sometimes the overlapping is varied between 1/4 to 1/3. Sometimes the overlapping is 1/2 (this is more difficult and it's wasting more material)
Exact in the middle under the door, so you cannot see the transition between the two floors when the door is closed. When the door is closed and you can see the floor from the other room than it's wrong installed!
You are sure the hardwood is 3 and a quarter inch thick? Usually hardwood is about 3 quarter of an inch thick (about 2 cm) Besides I don't know what exactly what do you mean? Could you provide us with some pictures?
Yes for sure the tongue on the hardwood be has to be removed prior to laying the particular board.
NO! No hardwood floor should sqeak and creek? If it does, then the work was just performed improperly.
Yes! An experienced carpenter would provide you with such a custom cut transition piece
I am not a carpenter however I assume it is possible. After removing the damaged piece of hardwood, you have to cut off the tongue from the new piece (otherwise you won't get it in) use some suitable adhesive and then click the piece in.
I hope I could help.
3D-Tile-Design - Bertram Tasch
I find the guy who said do not hire from a online forum greatly mistaken..isn' t he on a online forum?...any way this forum has lots of great contractors!...always check references and their legal clearances, this will assure you get a top end install. Hiring the cheapest guy is the worst thing you can do since professionals charge industry rates to be in business and do the right work, why do you think the cheap guy was so low priced??...you get what you pay for!
Good luck & Cheers!
I install all types of floors for Sparks Carpet One
I will answer all your questions
1- There is no specific certification but good installers should be able to provide documents from training they have taken to keep them on the leading edge of products and mouldings. For example a shluter certificate for tile and using systems like kurdi, kurdi board, and different applications with ditra etc.
2- With hardwood you usually have lots of choices in length to stagger your floor and everybody will have a different stagger to their preference and selection of lengths, I wont have a joint closer than 6 inches to the joint above and also try not to let any joints line up every 9 rows.
3-Your hardwood floor should stop under the door. Sometimes customers prep the floor to save money and might cut the carpet back to far so then he has to work with it and do the best he can. If thats not the case here than under the door and should provide a moulding which you can order to match the hardwood exact so you don't need to paint or stain.
4-Wood fill should not be necesary if you use a moulding to divide the 2 rooms.
If the hardwood floor continues into the other rooms in the same direction then no fill should be there. If the direction changes then sometimes the installer may use the hardwood as threshold in the doorway so the other rooms tongue locks into it, if he is out of square then he may use filler or could cut the hardwood on the angle necesary to keep it tight.
5-If that used as the threshold then yes cut off the tongue or you are left with a 3/8 gap. Again mouldings are available for that.
6-Even after screwing the floor if it squeeks it will squeek after the hardwood is nown. If screws removed the squeeks then you should not have any. IF you have a register however close to where you here the squeek or squeeks by the duct work that could be the cause, this is very common and not the installers wrong doing.
7-A good installer will make custom pieces to make transitions look appealing and flow properly, sometimes this is necesary as every home is different.
8-Yes you can remove a damaged board in the middle of the room. I use a skill saw and a chisel to remove the old piece quickly without damaging the other boards, cut a new piece accurately, sometimes you have to remove the tongue and use brad nails to place it down and wood fill to match floor.
Thanks to one of the responses for drawing my attention to the fact that my hardwood floor (not laminate) is 3/4 inch thick and 3 and a 1/4 wide. It is a random cut pattern and just newly laid. I used a, supposedly reputable hardwood flooring supplier who subcontracted out the installation.
The problems I described are what I am presently addressing with the supplier/store and will need someone who is qualified to inspect (I will pay for this service) as the Manager of the store/supplier is telling me that this is normal installation practices. I will send photos later today however it is quite difficult to see on a dark hardwood floor what I am talking about.
Any and all input and help - that is qualified would be appreciated.
This is very common with hardwood flooring. I have been in this situation many times and often times the supplier will bring a Rep. from the manufacture to the meeting. The Rep. will bring a suit case with a bunch of fancy tools, magnets, balls, and humidity sensors. They will typically stand up for the supplier because they purchase large quantities of flooring.
On the box and/or in the box of hardwood flooring will be a warranty/ Installation instructions. The Installation instructions are the standards for the flooring installer to follow. MOST warranties are exclusive, just like roofing, and must be installed by a person certified by that manufacture.
In your case I would want a rep from the manufacture to be present. I would ask for that certification to prove that your flooring installer is professional and your flooring is covered. After that is determined and your deficiencies are clearly discussed, you will most likely be offered a discount on the purchase price. Getting your flooring replaced may not be on the table but I have had a company rip out a floor and put a new one down.
I would argue for a reimbursement to hire a professional to fix the flooring. Having a Rep onsite will pressure the owner to be open minded and more professional rather than just read you the speach he gives every other unhappy customer.
There's no law for that but to make a good job 6 in. min is the best way to go, it holds more one and another and looks allot better when the inslaller knows is work, makes a very nice patern.
Hope this answered your questions.
From Amg Renovation.
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