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leveling and squaring

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Posted by: from Kitchener
11/22/2017 at 2:09:22 PM

Hi,

I have a contractor who is framing/insulating/drywalling our basement. I went downstairs and the frames around the exterior walls at tillted towards the exterior walls meaning that it is not straight up and down but at the top it is tilted towards the foundation. I suggested shimming it to straighten, but the contractor is now arguing with me about floor leveling. The house is old, the basement is unfinished and he was aware of what it looked like before the contract was signed. Is shimming the correct fix for this?

Thank you,

Sandi

REPLIES (7)
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Alex from Mr. Drywall Inc. in Brampton
Date/Time11/22/2017 at 3:12:28 PM

Hi Sandi.

As far as I could understand when you mention tilted I imagine the plumb of the wall, If that is the case the wall was built totally wrong. It should have been laser leveled in order to be perfectly plumbed.

Thanks

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Date/Time11/22/2017 at 3:16:55 PM

Hi Sandi,

I would ask them to put a level on the front of each stud or as the other bloke said "running their laser on the top and bottom plate. This will show how plumb it is. Someone reputable with nothing to hide would oblige. Also make sure they have poly or a foam gasket under the bottom plate which is required for wood on concrete.

Cheers

Scott.

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Date/Time11/22/2017 at 3:23:00 PM

Shimming would work for sure concrete is never perfect shimming will help getting walll to fit under the joists as well and make sure it's treated wood on any concrete the bottom plate has to be treated also PL premium to glue bottom plate

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Robert from ElecTriLight Ltd. in Oakville
Date/Time11/22/2017 at 4:36:51 PM

Shims are not necessarily the answer, but the walls must be straight and level. Not everyone can afford a laser level, but any carpenter should have a 4' level and can prove whether the walls are plumb or not. If the concrete is not perfectly straight and flat, a bulge in the concrete somewhere could have thrown the wall out somewhere that he either tried to hide or honestly just messed up. Mistakes happen, but correct it now, not later. It is not right and he should fix it if your facts are true.

Be careful not to nitpick every bit of his work though, nothing can ruin a renovation faster than a overly picky/pushy customer. Things need to be done right, but there is rarely a 100% perfect installation.

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Date/Time11/22/2017 at 6:34:03 PM

Sandi, The floor level has nothing to do with the walls. The walls mar vary in height if the floor is not level but that is a different and separate issue. The walls should be plumb (vertically level) and each stud (upright 2x4) should be plumb in both directions. Also look for twisted or bowed pieces of wood. If "discount" lumber is used, the material may not be good quality and this could affect the finished appearance. If there is a major issue, contact a local building inspector ... who is qualified to advise you and provide support of your claims for a sub-standard job. It should be done correctly or you'll experience issues in the future.

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Date/Time11/22/2017 at 7:25:00 PM

Sandi.

Your contractor should be taking a level to the walls to make sure they are level. They should also be measuring to make sure they are the appropriate distance from the concrete foundation as well.

A good old fashioned level will help. Shims should not be used as they now become a weak point in the wall structure. And in all honesty if they were installed correctly in the first place would not need shims at all.

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Date/Time11/22/2017 at 8:56:01 PM

Shims would work to bring the wall up tight to the ceiling and are completely acceptable to use because this is not a load bearing wall, it's only holding drywall. But I have a feeling that you are referring to the wall being uneven from the foundation, in which case they should be plumbed prior to installation of drywall. Keep in mind that the wall studs should not be in contact with the foundation and they should not compress the basement wrap insulation if there is any yet. Also yes wood must be protected from coming in contact with concrete via 6mm poly or a foam gasket, NEVER use pressure treated lumber in the home, it is for exterior use only. Simply ask your contractor to cut or pull the nails from the top of the wall, plumb the wall and renail.

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