I have removed carpet from my stairs. I am installing custom made treads from patterns of existing treads and risers. I have fit and pre-finished the treads. I can not get behind the stairs and I do not want to screw or nail. What is the best adhesive to use and what is the best method installing the treads with the glue? I have heard all kinds of stories from jumping on them to putting cement blocks!
Your help would be greatly appreciated.
We suggest (2) products.
1) would be contact cement which you have to roll/brush on the back of the new tread and face of old tread. This holds really well but you have to lay it straight on the first go.
2) is liquid nails. Similar to PL but holds alot better.
I have done this a few times and yes I agree with Lionel. PL Premium 3x is the best for this project. Warning!! do not cut all your treads the same length. The treads in the middle will not be the same size as the ones
at the top or bottom. They should be, but just double check. Each step must be fit and numbered. Always use light rubber gloves with this glue ( it likes to stain the skin ). I use a small patio stone 10 x 10 or 12 x 12 as a good weight. Spread the glue out all over the step, mostly in the corners and middle,( small putty knife) don't go to close to the edge because the glue may ooz out, if it does , just leave it until the next day and cut it off with a sharp knife after its dried.
Pl premium or any poly based adhesive will hold it without problems. Push it down into place on top of the adhesive and work your way down the stairs from the top so you don't walk on finished ones, weighting it with a stationary weight would be ideal. Give them atleast 24 hours before walking on them.
Thank you all for the quick response.One more question if I may. Siince I do not have a large number of weights to use. How long do I leave the weight on the tread? I am assuming 24 hours. Which is fine the job will just take a little longer. Again thank you!
Something to consider, here is a paragraph from Lepage, this is stairs your talking about and where people use them to climb and not taking into consideration the risk factor of improper installation would lead to a disaster down the road.
For Best Results:
Not for use on tub surrounds and other solid sheet goods made from rigid polystyrene
Not for use in water submersion applications
Not for use on polyethylene, polypropylene, flexible vinyl (FPVC)
Not for use on polyethylene (PE) films that cover certain XPS or EPS foam insulation board
Not for use on bitumen coated surfaces
Certain materials such as rubbers and plastics may have bonding difficulties. Test before use.
Take a strong look at what the treads are finished with the type of stain/lacquer, sure PL will hold for a while but over time chemical reactions to the PL and the tread finishes will deteriorate the bond.
I been down this road before, I strongly suggest to belt sand the back side of each tread then drill 3/8 inch holes 6-8 total in each tread about 3/4 to 1/2 inch in depth and same with base risers then dowel it, bonding with liquid nails.
I done many stairs over the past 32 years and have seen treads pop after they been down for 5 years by just being glued not screwed or naled.
I agree with using PLP as it is very strong and will fill any voids. Ensure you have good coverage. Also ensure the existing stairs are very clean and dry as well as the back of each new tread being applied. I also nail at the back where the new riser will fit to cover.
Kingsway Construction Inc
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