Basic breakdown for each dugout: dimensions approx. 30'L x 6-8'W x 8'H, concrete/cement base
chain link fencing across back, sides, and front with 2 3'openings at each end of the front portion for entry/exit,
basic slanted roof to protect players from elements, materials to be determined - should be durable and cost efficient.
2 x 10' bench for players per dugout to be attached to concrete base rather than permanently embedded so easy to replace in future if needed. (note, may source prefabricated benches or build basic wooden or aluminum benches)
extra - (not needed but nice to have) can you please include in estimate how much it would cost to include brackets to install storage units for equipment and how much it would be to build a basic multi-compartment box style storage unit to hold helmets, gloves and bats.
We are also planning to install an outfield fence. Can you please give me a basic price that includes materials and installation per 50ft. The fence will be approximately 150-200ft and should be 4ft high.
We will be constructing a minimum of 2 dugouts but may construct 4 depending on cost.
Field(s) have easy access for equipment, materials and vehicles.
Further details available upon request if needed.
Thank you
My town home was built in early 1960's... I painted the ceiling 18 years ago and now it is starting to flake off in multiple locations... My former tenant, a heavy smoker 20 years ago made the ceiling turn a yellowish brown color.
Me; not knowing anything about painting, repainted the ceiling with a latex paint, the nicotine bled through, so I ended up putting on 5 coats of a latex paint. It bled through all 5 coats. Eventually I was told I needed to prime it, problem was solved, now 20 years later the paint on ceiling is flaking off.
Room sizes are as follows: 10' 8" x 21.16 (228.5 ft sq.) Living room, Guest bed room 12' 6" x 9' 8" (123.48 sq ft.)
Would like stucco, nice neat design, like Greek or Italian houses / restaurants have..
Location: Ottawa, Pinecrest Area
Tim
We want to have a 20x30 ft sun room extension at the back and a 6x6ft extension at the front.
The front will become a two door entry to the house. The main door of the house should be larger than the other french door entering the house. The doors should not be set in a straight line. The front is already covered as shown in the picture. So it won't require framing for the ceiling. We need to intelligently design walls around the columns to make the construction look part of the existing construction. I think we would need to sit to discuss all details.
Summary of interior scope of work:
1) opening up the foyer by removing one wall on the main floor in the inlaw suite and reinstalling a French style door
2) reinforcing an existing railing and any needed finishing
3) removing tiles/ vinyl flooring and replacing with new tiles that are completely levelled
4) partially removing a non structural wall on the second floor and replacing with tempered glass (4 lineal feet)
5) reinstalling hardwood and staining where the wall has been removed (4 lineal feet)
6) relocating electrical (one light switch)
Summary of Exterior Work:
1) Replace siding with marine mahogany panels or similar material (Fundermax)
2) Replace siding with corrugated steel
3) Replacing bay window with modern window
4) Building a non structural box around the existing bay window
5) Building a new flat roof above entrance on top of reinforced concrete slab
6) Pouring reinforced concrete slab to support new roof over top of entrance
Drawings have been provided for conceptually showing the exterior scope of work.
I live in McKellar Park, north of Carling between Churchill and Woodroffe. I am looking for someone to do some exterior work on my house. Specifically, I am interested in having the following work done:
Soffit repair (minor)
Check/replace wood trim (or replace with metal trim)
Check/recaulk windows
Check/repair cracks in masonry and stucco
Check/replace/repair eavestroughing
Paint exterior
Ideally, I would like to find a single service professional who can do or coordinate all this work.
Water ingress through rotted Cedar siding and damaged some of the wood just behind the exterior wall just below the side door of the home. The hole in the wall is approximately 5 feet across 2 feet high The side door now also seems to be jammed.
Need to replace the wood structure, may need some sub floor repair at the door. The door frame may need some repair. Needs to be insulated, and the siding needs to be replaced.
After a general assessment of the building the job, broken into a series of phases, involves installing doors, windows, insulation, and flooring as well as some electrical and plumbing work.
The general goal is to turn the building into a more functional recreational and artist workspace.
Completing this project within a set time frame and within budget estimates is critical. Clear realistic expectations based on the contractor's assessments need to be communicated from the onset. Getting a sense of what might be doable within the proposed budget would be most helpful.
Please e-mail me and I will send you an Open Office version of the project details.
We have a leak in our kitchen ceiling, and we think it is coming somehow from the bathroom directly above it, since it has leaked several times when we haven't seen rain for days.
Our house had an addition put on it in the 80s - an extension of the main floor. Most of the upstairs bathroom wall borders the attic of the addition. So accessing the leak problem may require entering our attic (through a trapdoor in the ceiling of a closet).
I am looking for someone who can figure out how to stop this leaking and repair any serious damage it may have caused.
We are seeking a general contractor for the installation of approximately 170 square feet of cork floor in the kitchen of an older home in Little Italy, Ottawa, Ontario.
NOTE: We have already removed the floor and quarter round that was there, leaving a flat subfloor on which to install the new floor.
In addition to the new floor, we would also like new quarter round installed and a transition piece that can taper a significant 1.5" floor level discrepancy between the kitchen floor and the living room floor (hardwood).
NOTE: The kitchen subfloor is generally level, but there is a slight downward slope around the entrance way; we would seek your input on how (if it is advisable) to address this.
Because, as part of this project, we have moved our fridge, we also need to relocate a light switch and install an electrical outlet for the fridge's new location. The light switch would be moving from one side of the kitchen door frame to the other.
The cork floor (Wicanders, "Tea" Corkcomfort HPS Panels) has already been purchased. We ordered 190 square feet of it to account for waste and cutting.
We are looking to have this job done as soon as possible.
NOTE: As an additional minor job, there are two other transition pieces that need to be corrected in the front hallway We can talk about scoping this in or out of the project, though this is something of an add-on.
Thank you!
Contractor with strong designer/artistic sense sought for the following projects for a new condo:
- kitchen island, to measure approx 7fx3f -- we have ideas on materials, but would need assistance with final design
- custom pantry shelving for small pantry
- custom laundry room storage system
- custom closet systems for two closets, one regular and one small walk-in
- sliding wall system -- see Raydoor.com (unsure what Canadian equivalent may be, if any)
House dimensions are approximately 40' x 35'. Complete waterproofing required for the foundation, new windows in the basement with window wells.
Both bathrooms (8X5) in the house require renovation, new stack will be required as the one we have now is cast iron. The upstairs bathroom must be made bigger so space will be taken from hallway and by reconfiguring some bedrooms... Open to suggestions on how to best handle this.
All upstairs windows require replacing or repairing. We want to change the kitchen window to a patio door and extend the front porch.
We would like to make the fireplace more efficient.
Entire scope of work is to be determined by costs and timelines.
Current house is a 26x40 bungalow with hip gable roof on 100x90 lot. Plan is to add 18x50 attached garage/workshop perpendicular to main house (tear down existing detached 1 car). Also replace existing roof with upright 12x12 pitch gable roof and integrate into garage roof-line. This will create 2nd floor living space and studio above garage. Project is for all construction work, insulation, heating, to drywall stage. Plumbing rough-in, and possibly some interior walls and doors. Main floor will remain mostly untouched except for additon of stairs to upper level and front porch addition.
Exterior finishing tbd, but likely stucco or stone with possibly wood. Style is contemporary/mid-centry modern with natural stone and wood elements.
I'm looking to convert an existing two-car garage attic into a living space with full bathroom. The existing garage footprint is approximately 36' x 30', the second level is already finished with a staircase and floor (plywood), however, due to the sloped ceilings on the second level, the overall size may be smaller than the garage-level.
What I'm looking for:
- Finish garage level AND second level of garage (attic), insulate, drywall, trim (level 4 finish)
- Heat/cool garage and attic, addition of natural gas furnance and A/C unit if we can't tie into existing
- Add drainage to existing garage floor (concrete)
- Add two skylights to roof above second level attic OR one large dormer
- Add full bath (sink, toilet, shower) to second level attic, tie into existing septic
- Hardwood floors on second level, and staircase leading to second level attic
The space will be used as an office/living space, there is a septic system on the property that has capacity for the extra fixtures -- we would need to tie into existing septic.
We have a garage door with a cement wall and metal framing 14' X 14'. we would like to increase the width of the door to 18'to accommodate a truck hoist. We are repairing our own trucks in this area. I am the fleet Manager. We are looking to have this done over the winter, possibly expanding the other side brick wall to add an office and stock room.
I have a cinder block concrete garage with a wood shed attached at the back, the garage has siding on the outside. I would like the wood shed unattached, I can do this part, once the shed is removed there will be 1/2 a wall unfinished, I would like the wall completed with cinder block & concrete to close it in, I would also like (2) doors installed through walls that are cinder clock & concrete. I would also like a concrete sidewalk installed along the garage with drainage gutters; The roof of the garage needs to be replaced. I would like to add solar panels to the garage roof.
Hi,
I’m looking for an estimate to save a garage. The garage cannot come down because of regulation – I would lose it forever.
It needs a new cement pad, cement foundation repair, straightening, some framing boards replaced, needs door and window, need garage door and siding. All supplies will be provided. Estimate would include labour only.
Looking for a rough estimate to make it right. Also an estimate of how long it would take.
Please get back to me as soon as possible. Does not have to be done right away.
Thanks,
Steve
I have a 15 x30 car port on a bungalow that I want to remove and replace with a garage with rooms above. I would need heat, power outlets rough in for pot lights and maybe plumbing rough in in case I want a bathroom later. I could finish the interior myself but would like it to be insulated properly on walls and floor. If I built it 15 X 40 what would be the extra cost?
This is what we're thinking:
24' deep x 36' wide
2 large shed dormers on each side (34')
Garage floor - 2 large vehicle bays and workshop (12 x 24) - 3 or 4 windows
2 separate garage doors
Closet under stairs
Upstairs - open room, (we're considering radiant heat flooring) - several windows
tongue and grove pine board on cathedral ceiling
No plumbing
Electrical work throughout
dumb waiter (maybe€we may put a pellet or wood stove up top)
Steel roof
Site conditions - close to a gully, may need slab with frost wall?
Would welcome quotes on stick frame building but also interested in insulated concrete forms or other "green" building ideas.
Our interest is in updating our current townhouse/condo which is 3 levels and approx. 1700 sq. ft. The following is a list of anticipated work:
- remove carpeting on 3rd level and replace with hardwood/laminate flooring (approx. 600 sq. ft)
- replace carpeting on 2 staircases -- possibly with flooring or simply new carpeting
- replace existing doors (and frames if/where necessary) throughout the home (approx. 5 doors)
- painting of certain rooms including bedrooms, bathrooms, living area(s) and hallways throughout the home (approx. 1,000 to 1,200 sq. ft. of painting)
- replace all electrical baseboard heaters with up-to-date, more efficient heaters (incl. digital thermostats)
- install two ceiling fans with lights where there are currently no lights
- install pot lights over office area (where there exists a drop ceiling)
- possible installation of multiple pot lights in main living area (where there is no drop ceiling)
We are ready to begin the renovations at any time.
Thank you for your time,
Anthony & Lorrie
I am looking for a certified electrician/plumber to complete several condominium renovation projects in a one bedroom penthouse suite in West Ottawa. Included renovations are the removal of carpet and installation of Beaulieu Therma Ainsworth Plank flooring; removal and installation of new stainless steel LG appliances (refrigerator, stove, over the range microwave and dishwasher; removal and replacement of all cabinet doors in both the kitchen and bathroom with shaker style doors and new hardware; removal of tub and shower enclosure and installation of a MAAX Cocoon heated jetted tub with new frameless glass enclosure with new faucets and shower assembly; removal of counter tops in the kitchen and bathrooms and installation of quartz countertops with new faucets for the sinks; removal of old closet doors in the front hall and bedroom and installation of ReliaBilt Renin closet doors in their place; removal of door knobs with upgraded door handles; removal of any wallpaper trim in the unit and priming and painting of the walls, ceiling and trim; and removal of old dining room light and installation of chandelier over the dining room table. According to my math, my budget is $50,000 less materials, which means that the contractor(s) that accept this renovation project will be paid over $24,000 for four or less weeks of work. If this interests you and you are qualified, please contact me.
Post your project and let top-rated pros compete to get your business. Compare bids, read real customer reviews and hire the best contractor the first time.
Click here to get started