80-year old house, with absolutely no insulation in the walls.. Walls are old plaster and lath, some have been drywalled over with thin drywall sheets.
Would like to look into Blow-in insulation option as opposed to taking down every wall in the house to re-insulate, weighing pros/cons for each option.
Could this be covered under the Ontario government's energy rebate for insulating the walls?click here for your time!
This is an existing renovated home in North York with about 500 square feet of uninsulated wall area, mostly in a single 1.5 storey wall. I'll consider either dense-packed cellulose or foam products which can be used safely in existing construction. We won't be demolishing and re-drywalling.
Construction is wood platform framing with brick veneer: single layer of brick on 1" air gap on tar paper on TIGHT 3/4" wood sheathing (no gaps), on 2x4 studs 16" on centre (typically w/firestops about half way up each stud bay). Interior finish is typically wood lath with 3/8" dryall, with cabinetry etc. in places. Access is available from inside (walls and unfinished basement) and from outside through brick veneer.
Other work is under consideration, including basement walls, rim joist area etc.
1960 bungalow not occupied, all old plaster is stripped.
Outside walls are block & brick will be framed in the next week or two max.
We need spray foam of outside walls and blow new insulation on the attic.
House is 1350SF, perimeter of outside walls 100-120ft with 8ft ceilings.
Please provide an approximate estimate, so no one is wasting there time.
Contractor may start in one-two weeks max.
Thank you.
.
The house is 75 years old or so. The space above the front porch over which sits a front second floor bedroom needs to be insulated either with blown in insulation or spray foam. I am also considering having the spray foam done to the exterior walls. The house is about 13ft wide and it is about 1000 square feet in the upper beaches area of Toronto. There is potential access for blown in via the eaves trough area. The ceiling of the porch is now covered with plywood. I would like to get a rough estimate and then have someone come over to give me a more specific quote after viewing the house.
Depending on the cost - I would take down and re-install the plywood if the spray foam option was chosen.
Hi!
I would like to insulate a front room in my Queen Street West Toronto apartment to help lower heating and air conditioning costs. The room measures approx. 12'x8', is below a balcony, and overhangs the sidewalk somewhat, so, most of the floor, the whole ceiling, and one 8'x8' wall are exterior. Each of these surfaces get very cold in the winter, and the room gets very hot in the summer. A 12'x8' wall is completely double-pane glass, and is exterior as well. I would prefer if the renovation was not too extensive and was hoping blow-in insulation would be possible, however, I don't know what kind of insulation, if any, is currently installed.
If there would be significant electricity savings, I would consider insulating the roof as well, although I haven't noticed it being very cold in the winter (but haven't made a point of checking either), so current insulation may be adequate.
Please send me a quote and feasibility statement, if you please!
Thanks,
Michael
We are starting a top up project for a house and looking for quotes on the following:
Insulation - need to understand the various types, prices and select preferred vendor for multiple projects.
Need drywall/taping services for the basement, 1st and 2nd floor.
Looking for complete services and looking to build long term relationships as we have multiple projects on the go and looking to work with the same trade team if we can for all of them.
Looking for a quote and feel free to reach out if you need more information. Drawings/Plans are available if required.
Approximate sq. ft 2500.
3 storey detached home
Area: Toronto - Upper Beaches
30 + year old house.
I am about to mount 52" LCD TV on the living wall, top of the fire place. Fount out wall (plaster) has no insulation. Since I have to open plasters to hang TV securely to the cement behind the plaster, I might as well insulate the wall before mount the TV.
I also need to cut out part of kitchen wall to make rectangular opening, so I can watch TV from the kitchen. I want to make narrow breakfast table attached to the bottom of the opening.
We are looking to have our existing roof replaced, and would also like to improve the insulation between the roof and the top floor to prevent heat loss in the winter and overheating in the summer. Here are some details about the roof and house:
- semi-detached house (neighbour recently replaced their roof prior to us moving into our home)
- roof is about 26' wide by 40 feet deep
- back half of house has a flat roof
- poor insulation between top floor and roof
- existing roof is 20+ years old
- 100+ year old house
- front porch does not need a new roof (recently redone in last 3 years)
I have also attached a picture of the front of the house, showing the aged shingles on the slanted roof.
This project involves soundproofing the party wall in a 2 storey 1870's semi-detached home in Toronto. The current wall (on our side) is mostly plaster lathe mostly likely on 2x4 studs. I think the condition is uninsulated. We would like to investigate options of soundproofing, including: removing plaster lathe, insulating, and placing a soundproof barrier (double drywall with green glue? lead, quietrock?) or hanging additional 5/8" drywall with green glue on the existing plaster lathe. We would like to remove and reinstall the old trim in either case.
The project would include soundproofing the entire adjoining wall, omitting the kitchen. This work will be completed when we refinish the kitchen.
Constraints: the stairway adjoins the wall, so we can't lose much space (maybe 1"). Also there is one plaster finial on the main floor which we would like to retain (but not embed in the built out wall).
The pipes to our kitchen sink are routed through the ceiling of a basement stairwell. The insulation on these pipes has been insufficient in the past to get us through the winter, without the pipes freezing on us. We'd like to get these pipes either properly insulated, or lined with heating wire, so that we can get through the winter.
Particular Challenges:
- Pipes go through the existing floor joists
- Access through basement stairwell is limited
We need:
- Existing insulation and ceiling removed
- Proper insulation or electrification installed
- New ceiling/wall put up (plywood or similar will be fine)
Owner of a 1700 sqft 1927 solid brick home. It was recently rewired, but now we would like to replace all lath and plaster with closed-cell spray foam insulation and drywall.
Job includes 5 medium sized rooms (living, dining, 3 bedrooms), hallways, and very small kitchen.
I have a few houses lined up I am renovating and i have all subtrades except for spray insulation.
At this house i have between 300 to 400 sqf spray insulation, R31, that I want to do as soon as possible.
My price range is between 4 to 4.50 per sqf; with a good price I can always give my future spray foam jobs
Call jason
Hi,
I own a home on Toronto Island and am looking to get my exterior walls and insulation redone. It's an older home and the exterior walls only have 2/4 insulation. I'm hoping it will be possible to add additional insulation on and redo the siding. Toronto Island has a ferry that can transport vehicles.
Please let me know if this is work that would interest you.
Hello,
I completed an eco-audit back in late May/2009.
It was recommended that I would need the exterior walls of my house insulated as well as the attic.
Given that my exteriror walls have close to no insulation at all, if I could insulate them upto a value of R9 I would qualify for a maximum grant.
The total square feet of my house is about 2100 sq. ft (including a basement).
Please provide me a quote to insulate my exterior walls and attic as to get the maximum rebate.
Regards,
Paolo
Owner
We just completed an energy audi of our older 2-story semi-detached home. The home was constructed with siding and minimal insulation. Per audit recommendation, we would like to raise the R value of flat roof area to >R28, exterior walls >R10 and basement walls >R24. There is no attic access in the house and all spaces are finished including the basement.
New roof shingles, install new baffles and vent soffits, new soffits and new eaves and new down spouts. This is a 1000 Sqft bungalow. Handle disposal and hall away debris, supply and install drip edges. Supply and install under layment, New plumbing pipe flashing. New roof vents and new exhaust vents. Supply and install J-trims, gutter runs, Remove and dispose of the chimney bricks and cap the chimney.
It is a small room off the side of my kitchen. Was originally the backdoor and porch. Someone in the last 100 years enclosed and insulated. I had a leak three years ago and had the roof repaired/fixed. I have waited until now to re-drywall in order to make sure the leak was GONE. The room has been gutted by me and garbage gone. I need insulation, vapour barrier and drywall, tape and mud and sand. I will prime and paint. The room is small. It is around 150 sq ft. with two windows taking up some of that. The ceiling was slanted on a 45-50% angle. There may be a little bit of framing to be done (very little).
I have talked to 3 different places already and NOBODY has called back to make an appt. to even see the room.
The house was built in the 20's. I want a good insulation factor but it doesn't HAVE to be the most expensive stuff. They had some pink and some yellow. Mixed stuff. The floor is plywood but will be covered later by me. We could talk about another project for the mudroom floor.
Hello,
We are applying an extension to our War Time Home. We will require our entire house re-sided as well as the extension. We will also require insulation placed under the siding.
We are looking for a company that preferably can do both the new roof for the extension and siding (including insulating).
We have the drawings ready, and will send them based on your businesses background and information included. We are not looking for a GC - we require specialised specific industry based company and not a middle man.
Thank you, Jon.
I need to upgrade the party wall I share with a noisy and inconsiderate neighbour. The wall is "thin", thanks partly to a previous owner's reno work. I have read about sound-proof drywall (Quiet Rock and Suppress), although it is expensive. I would want the heavy home theatre grade and the job would take about 20 sheets. The house is two-story. It is 100 years old, but was gutted and dry-walled by the previous owner almost 30 years ago.
There may be other technology, but I want good results.
I also need an attic entrance. I would lay sound and fire proof insulation up there.
Our home is a 105 year old semi-detached house in downtown Toronto. The exterior is all brick however the shared wall is not - it is lathe/plaster or drywall on both sides with no insulation (generally) between the houses.
We are seeking a contractor experienced in sound proofing techniques to modify our side of the shared wall to reduce the sound transmission between the houses.
The current state of the adjoining wall is as follows:
1st floor - Living room 15ft length - drywall including covered brick fireplace; alcove 3 ft length - plaster/lathe; dining room - 10 ft length - plaster/lather with decorative wood work and curved join with ceiling; kitchen - 15 ft - drywall, no plumbing. All approx 9 ft ceilings.
2nd floor - Bedroom - 11ft length - drywall on 2x2 frame on top of original plater/lathe; hallway - 23 ft length - original plaster/lather; bedroom 10 ft length - drywall directly on original plaster/lath. Approx 8 ft ceilings.
We expect that the work required will entail removal of all of the existing walls and replaced with sound proofing construction.
This would likely include: filling cavities with sound proofing insulation; addition of either staggered studs or a resilient channel system; two layers of 5/8" drywall. Also expect work to be done as possible to area between shared joists.
The work would include final restoration of walls (including all baseboards and curved ceiling and woodwork in the dining room).
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