Basement framing

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Posted by: from Beamsville
7/19/2012 at 6:16:16 PM

I would like to frame in a bed room wall with one door. I was wondering do I leave a gap between the foundation wall and the first floor joist?

And when I put the bottom plate down to the concrete floor could I use adhesive or concrete nails?

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Rachid from Domilya Group in Oakville
Date/Time7/19/2012 at 7:11:36 PM

Hi There,

My name is Rachid from XTERRA HOME RENOVATIONS. I Would recommend you seek a professional to fram it for you.

I am sorry without see the job and what you have done so far it could be all incorrect.



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Date/Time7/19/2012 at 7:26:53 PM

The top plate should be fastened to your floor joists. For the bottom plate make sure you use a foam gasket to keep the wood from contacting the concrete.

I'd use Tapcons if this is a small job, not adhesive.

Good luck

Tom Goodfellow

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Chris in Beamsville
Date/Time7/19/2012 at 7:33:22 PM

I work full time as a framer i just started a year ago. I havnt done basement framing. I have been talking to my boss about it. its just some things i forget to ask him.

Thanks for the tips tho

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Date/Time7/19/2012 at 9:15:43 PM


This is Daniel from Integrity Contracting.

No gap should be left, otherwise rubbing will occur as you walk above this area, causing it to Squik.

For the bottom plate, two options, 1 Metal track anchored with 1/2 inch long powder actuated gun n nail.

2 Use 2x4 or x6 fastened with 2 inch powder actuated gun nd nail every 2 to 3 feet, using 6 miill politherine plastic to prevent rotting as cement acts as a condenser and transmits humidity.

I would stay away from PTL, pressured treated lumber, as it stains drywall. Make sure your studs are cut presiasly, otherwise you may experience a bump on the floor above.

Hope this helps.

Do recommend to get an expert for this type of projects, the return for your money is a job well done that lasts.


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Date/Time7/19/2012 at 9:22:51 PM


If it is just a small wall or walls, not an issue. For the bottom plate either use a sill gasket, plastic or pressure treated lumber.

The idea here is to have a moisture barrier between the two areas (cement and wood wall frame). If there is nothing in the concrete flood i.e. in-floor heating, use a Hilty or screws (made for cement) for your bottom plate.

I wouldn't be too concerned about the tightness to the upper floor joists as this wall isn't a bearing wall.

Good luck.


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Chris in Beamsville
Date/Time7/20/2012 at 5:19:21 AM

Thank you guys so much. its kinda funny now. my boss called me and said we r framing in a basement so ill soak in as much info as possible. But u guys gave me a good idea of the bottom plate and gasket.

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Gaby from Amg Renovation in Hearst
Date/Time7/22/2012 at 5:10:26 PM

Hi there,

Ok, don't use PL (Glue) if your wood is not treated because you need a foam or plastic under your 2x4 or 2x6 and wont stick and in basement if you have heated floors your pipe are not supposed to go this close to the wall especially for nailing your framing (Me anyway).

And we also recommend blue wood or treated wood by Canadian code (your choice) no it wont stain your drywall, also have to use drywall with mould resistant for basement or bathroom again its the code (Green drywall is better) allot of kind would do the trick but has to be mould resistant but if you already have a floor built you can use glue, its wood on wood but still have to use the treated wood, because you really need to do this one right or wont last, and don't put your insulation directly on the cement wall, if its there your building your new wall?

And don't forget your vapour barrier after your insulation, ALWAYS HAVE A PERMIT THIS WAY YOU WILL KNOW IF THE JOB IS WELL DONE, AND MAKE IT EXPECT IT.


Certified Carpenter

Certified Inspector

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Chris in Beamsville
Date/Time7/28/2012 at 10:19:34 AM

Just finished chalking ouut. Today is the day.

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