Sound insulation
2/22/2017 at 7:05:37 PM
I hired a contractor to add sound deadening material to the outside walls. He assured me that the insulation he used on two previous jobs would solve the problem. I asked if sheathing would need to be added over the insulation. He told me it wasn't necessary.
The insulation did nothing to absorb outside noise. This cost me $9,000. I told him I wrote to the manufacturer who make no claims that the insulation he used absorbed noise.
Very nice guy, the contractor, not money-hungry, but didn't seem concerned that the work didn't do what I hired them to do. We called his references who said it dampened outside noise. Contractor thought it may be because our house is 2x4 construction and the other houses were 2x6, but he knew that before he started the job. I wasn't looking to increase R value, I made that very clear.
What can I do to have this corrected without spending more money? This is very upsetting.
2/22/2017 at 9:25:50 PM
First you have to figure out where the noise is getting in. This can be very difficult. It may be through the roof, windows or doors. Call someone who specializes in sound proofing. Avoid "Jack of all Trades" type people. You want a company that does ONLY SOUND PROOFING and there aren't a lot of of these companies out there.
Good luck
2/22/2017 at 11:03:48 PM
I would suggest now that the outside has been insulated sheathing and finished to soundproof the inside. Since you have 2"x4" for framing you could add a 2x2 to all the existing exterior framed walls and plates and Spray Foam all the exterior walls 2 pound sprayfoam insulation then re-drywall with 5/8" drywall. You can install steal noise resistant channels for maximum sound proofing. If money is not a major concern you could change out all your windows and doors to triple pane glass. Finally you can add blown in insulation to your attic. This would maximize your maximum sound proofing and R-value at the same time.
2/22/2017 at 11:29:11 PM
Thank you. Just to clarify, sheathing was not installed as the contractor said it wasn't necessary.
I did get another estimate that was for blown insulation and sheathing but I went with this one because he wasn't 45 minutes late for our appt and certain it would solve the problem. Glad my legs are long enough to kick myself.
Unfortunately, money is an issue. I will try 5/8 drywall and attic insulation.
So the contractor is not obligated to make it right?
2/23/2017 at 2:02:20 PM
Karen,
If you are going to add another layer of drywall I'd recommend Quiet Rock rather than 5/8. It is specifically designed for sound proofing.
Check out there website here: https://www.quietrock.com/
You can also use green glue between the layers of drywall. It is very effective and wont require new framing.
See their website here: http://www.greengluecompany.com/
2/25/2017 at 2:32:23 PM
Sound Proofing is a costly and tedious process. The previous posts have some great ideas but the are all very costly. Reading your first Post your on a Budget. Green Glue is for Vibration as is Resilient Channel. Quit Rock is For Sound 1 Sheet is the equivalent of 8 Sheets of Drywall but at a Cost 45-70$ Per sheet. Roxul R14 is what you would use to reinsulate a 2/4 Wall you can change E/Outlets to Plastic Insulated Boxes. To me The Windows will be your source of sound breaking into your living space and the most expensive to replace. There is a cheaper solution depending on your Outside space of planting shrubs along the noisy side of your property they can dampen sound considerably.
Good Luck With your quest for a Quite Living Space.
Cheers,
BMUSCOTTY
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